Hawaii – North Shore

I LOVE the North Shore. I used to live in Waialua so this area of the island has a very special spot in my heart. In the summer, the North Shore is a fantastic place to snorkel and swim, but in the winter it’s where all the major surf competitions are held and the waves are insanely large, so you won’t be able to get in the water. Just something to keep in mind when you are planning what kind of “beach day” you want to have 🙂

The main town on the North Shore is Haleiwa, which has a cool surfer/country vibe. To get to the North Shore you can either drive straight up the middle of the island via the H2 (enjoy the fields of pineapples and Dr. Seuss-like trees as you approach the ocean) or drive north along the east coast until you hit Turtle Bay. The west side of the island doesn’t connect with the north shore, so plan accordingly.

On the far western tip the North Shore is Ka’ena Point. You need a 4-wheeler / wrangler to get out here, or you can hike/walk out to the point, but I definitely recommend driving because the walk is long, hot, and boring. Once you get out to the point, you’ll see sea lions and the BEST view on all of Oahu, looking down the west coast. It’s insane. Go at sunset and it will be one of the things you remember about your trip to Hawaii. It’s a pain to get to, which means there are not usually a lot of people, which means it’s even that much more amazing.

On your journey out to Ka’ena Point you may notice a few other cool things. First, if anyone is a LOST fan, you’ll pass the “others” camp (all the yellow buildings) as well as the beach where the wrecked plane was located – the plane is long gone but you’ll recognize the beach and it’s super cool / creepy to see. Second, you’ll drive by Dillingham, which the only place to skydive or sit in a glider plane (never been but my husband and friends have tried it a few times – pics are out of this world). I don’t know the names of any of the beaches out this way, but they are usually pretty secluded and a dreamy place to spend the day.

On the far eastern tip of the North Shore is Turtle Bay. This fancy resort (where Forgetting Sarah Marshall was filmed) is super expensive, but if you want to treat yourself to a staycation, this gets you out of the Waikiki craziness and is the only commercial place to stay on the North Shore. There are lots of activities here, world-famous golf, spa, etc, etc, etc. It’s also just fun to get a drink there at their funky island bar if you are stopping by. Check it out.

All along the coast of the North Shore there are world famous beaches, and for good reason. Definitely check out Sunset Beach – while there you have to get a picture of the bendy horizontal palm tree and stop by Ted’s Bakery to get the garlic shrimp plate (so much butter and so much garlic – it’s heaven) and a slice of pie. Everyone raves about the chocolate haupia pie, but all their pies are yummy. A friend recently shared about an amazing place to get acai bowls (and coffee!) with a really fun atmosphere – check out Sunrise Shack (which also has a location at Sharks’ Cove and in Waikiki at The Outrigger).

You also need to see the world famous Pipeline, whether you are there during surf season or not. This is my favorite place to watch a surf competition because you are so close to the surfers and the waves, and the beach at all times of year is A+.

Another famous beach is Waimea – this is my least favorite place to see a surf competition because the surfers are so far out and hard to see, but it’s one of my favorite beaches during the non-surf months. You can jump off the big rock there, run rocks under the ocean for a workout, or just marvel at the scenery as you play a game of floating beer pong in the calm bay waters. It’s pretty darn idyllic.

Snorkeling at Shark’s Cove is a blast – I think this was my favorite place to snorkel on Oahu (Haunama Bay on the south/east tip of the island is famous, but there are SO many people and it’s more of a process to go through). At Shark’s Cove you can just pop on snorkeling gear and jump in the water. Which reminds me that it’s probably helpful to mention here that you’ll need to actually procure snorkeling gear before coming – there are no stands or commercial operations (however, check out Sunrise Shack for an acai bowl of coffee afterwards or Pupukea Grill for some heartier fare). You can also do a shark cave dive in this area – expensive but worth the treat. And not scary at all (at least I didn’t think so)…it’s weirdly beautiful.

Haleiwa is the main town on the North Shore and there’s lots to see or eat.

  • The BEST sandwiches are from Wailua Bakery – they don’t accept card but the make their own breads and all of their ingredients are local. I have yet to find a sandwich place anywhere in the US that I love as much.

  • Konos has bomb breakfast burritos, and this location used to be the only one on Oahu before they got so successful and expanded (I think there are 4 locations now?). Get the “Wendy” and the limeade! And some sort of apparel because I see the pig surfing logo randomly around the US and it’s an instant conversation starter.

  • Banzai has good sushi in a very north-shorey vibey place

  • The li hing mui margaritas from Cholos are delish (though the rest of the food is kinda eh)

  • The Coffee Gallery has great – obv – coffee, but also acai bowls

  • Cafe Haleiwa is BYOB and a fun place to grab brunch and bring champagne for mimosas (there’s a liquor store next door…quite convenient)

  • Beet Box Cafe is healthy but SO good (I’m always wary of “healthy” places actually being tasty)

  • The shrimp trucks are on all the bucket lists, but they are overrated. I’d rather have the garlic shrimp from Ted’s Bakery (mentioned above) if I’m being honest. Sidenote: I am spoiled and like to just eat my plate lunch instead of having to do any work peeling the shrimp (which you’ll have to do if you get your shrimp from one of the trucks).

  • Matsumotos is a famous shave ice shop, but….I think it’s overrated too. Serry. And putting azuki beans on top is gross. A better bet? Get ice cream from Scoop of Paradise.
  • Farm to Barn, Maya’s, and Uncle Bo’s are three new additions that friends have recommended (that are new to the North Shore since I’ve lived there).

There are a bunch of great hikes on the North Shore. Kealia gives you views of the whole shore (but you better like switchbacks!) and the Pillbox hike is quick and easy. Google for other ideas. There’s a few yoga studios up here, but my favorite is the North Shore Co-Op. Very local, no fancy studio, kick-ass yoga.

Another North Shore experience you sould definitely take advantage of is polo. Everyone pulls up cars to tailgate and the crystal clear ocean is on one side of you, the majestic mountains are on the other side, and people are riding on horses in the middle, while you are drinking a delicious adult beverage wearing a bathing suit. It’s unreal.

And finally – I think this goes without saying, but if you ARE in Hawaii during Nov / Dec then you absolutely HAVE to check out one of the surf competitions. They are so much fun!

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